Wednesday September 14th saw us pack up at Lake Argyle and head the short 70Km drive into Kununurra. Our niece, Emma Holman, is the assistant manager at the Ivanhoe Tourist Park so naturally we decided to stay there. We pulled in early and there was lots of excitement and hugs with Emma. We setup on a great pull through site with lots of shade (We actually were given two sites). It is a large park but is fairly quiet as it is approaching the end of the dry season The caravan park is lovely and clean, with a beautiful pool and gardens. It would be crowded in the peak season. Kununurra is a major tourist destination and the population doubles in the peak winter months.
After we setup we ventured into Coles to stock up our fruit and vegetables as we had to get rid of everything before crossing into WA. Had a relaxing afternoon and a few cold drinks with Emma and her friend Matina who is travelling with her.
Thursday was Carol's birthday so we had a big bacon & eggs Breakfast to start us off. We went into the tourist info centre and booked the six of us on a tour to El Questro for Saturday. Emma took us out to Ivanhoe Crossing after lunch. The crossing has been closed all dry season because of the amount of water they are still releasing from Lake Argyle and the Diversion Dam in Kununurra. The water is really flowing through at a high speed and they don't think the crossing will even open next year at this point. We will probably come back before we leave to have a fish as Barramundi can be caught there. We enjoyed watching some young aboriginals playing with a cast net and a football while we were at the crossing. Most of the afternoon was spent cooking a big baked dinner for Carol's birthday celebration. We had a very nice meal and visit with Emma.
Friday morning Emma took us all for a drive North to Wyndham which is the northernmost town in WA. We stopped at the Grotto on the way. It was beautiful but unfortunately there is no water flowing in it at the moment. We have decided that we will need to return to the Top End again someday at the end of the wet season to see it in all it's beauty. We followed along the Cockburn Ranges which are beautiful.
From there we continued north to Wyndham where we visited the Big Croc, the Dreamtime Statues, and the port. The port was at low tide and the mud stretched out a long ways. Saw lots of mudskippers in the wet mud along the wharf. We also stopped at the caravan park where there was an old Boab tree that they figure is 2000 years old. Amazing!
We drove up to the Five Rivers Lookout for a picnic lunch. There is a beautiful view from there of the Cambridge Gulf where the Ord, King, Pentecost, Durack, and Forrest Rivers empty into it. Unfortunately, it was smoky and hazy so not as good of a view as it could be. Still very impressive.
We stopped at the mud flats on the way back. They form a mirage that looks like there is water but they are as dry as can be and stretch for miles. We took our car out and had some fun burning donuts etc on the mud. Girls got some good pictures.
Saturday morning we were up early for our 7am pickup for our El Questro tour. Our first guide Larrisa took us for an hour drive up the Gibb River road to our first stop at Emma Gorge. We did a short but challenging walk into the gorge which was beautiful. Some of us took a swim in the waterfall pool which was quite refreshing. We backtracked to the Lodge where we had a beautiful morning tea including Gluten free cakes for the girls. Very nice setting and good food.
From there we journey a further 30 minutes up the Gibb River Road and into the El Questro entrance to Zebedee Springs. This was a beautiful location where the water is always around 30 degrees. They close the spring prior to the tour arrival so you have the springs to yourself. It was beautiful and the water was lovely. We enjoyed about 30 minutes relaxing, having fun, and exploring the various pools. We could have stayed longer but unfortunately we were scheduled for lunch at the El Questro Station.
We finished the short journey into El Questro to the Station where we enjoyed a Beef and Barramundi lunch. The food was average as was the setting. Would definitely recommend Emma Gorge over El Questro Station for place to eat and/or stay. We said goodbye to Larrisa at this point and were introduced to Amy who was our guide for our afternoon 4WD safari.
We first journeyed to the Chamberlain Gorge from where we could see the famous El Questro Homestead from a distance. The floods have caused a massive amount of damage to the Gorge and River. The view from the Homestead would be quite disappointing for someone spending $2500/night. Amy showed us pictures of the Gorge before and after the flooding and the difference was incredible. It will be many years if ever before it looks the same again. The Homestead itself was lucky not to be destroyed as the high waters had knocked out some of the supports. Only a Boab tree being swept and wedged under the homestead prevented it from toppling into the water.
From there she took us down to the Durack Boab Tree and gave us some history of El Questro Station. We then crossed the Pentacost River and climbed up to a lookout at the top of Saddleback Ridge. The Cockburn Ranges make up a large portion of El Questro's 1 Million acres and are beautiful. From the top of the lookout you could see for miles and miles in all directions. It was somewhat hazy and smoky from fires in the ranges but beautiful. A helecoptor went roaring by below us on a scenic tour which looked pretty exciting. We had champagne and fruit snacks as we enjoyed the view. Carol and I learned not to try and finish a glass of champagne in a 4WD on a rough track on the way down.
It was a beautiful end to a beautiful day. Overall I think El Questro is a bit overrated but the countryside is beautiful and well worth a visit. The part of the Gibb River Road we were on was not too bad at all and a 4WD would only be required for the river crossings in the El Questro 16KM driveway. We were returned to our caravans about 7PM and we were all tired and had an early night.
Sunday we all enjoyed a relaxing day. Lots of lazing around the swimming pool as has been very hot. Di, Carol, and Sandra did each others hair colours and trims, while Terry had a haircut as well. John, Terry, Stephen, Emma, and Carol went out to the Dunham River in the late afternoon and fished for a couple of hours. Notice Carol's technique below (the hook never touched the water and phone never left her ear) No luck although we did have a number of small bites. Probably Catfish or Sooty Grunter.
Monday morning Sandra and I did some exploring of our own around Kununurra. We did a short walk through the Mirima National Park which has very interesting rock structures (locals call it the Mini Bungles) and a good view of the town from the lookout. We then visited the Sandalwood Factory. This is the major crop being grown in the irrigation area. It is quite a complex process as it actually is parasitic and needs to be planted with other trees to host it. The growing period is 15 years so I would say it is a fairly risky venture. A few locals we met are a bit leery of the Sandalwood industry as is an investment scheme and they feel the crops in the irrigation system should be more diversified. We then quickly toured the Hoochery where they distill Rum. We didn't sample but they had some lovely prints of cattle musters etc which Sandra and I liked. We returned home for a quick lunch before venturing out again. We explored the Lake, Swim Beach (where you can't swim), and the Zebra Rock Gallery. The Rock gallery was interesting as they also had a fish feeding area where their property backed onto the Ord River. Also could see the workshop where they make the jewellery and had some exotic birds. Quite a variety. We returned home mid afternoon for some R&R. The three boys took another unsuccessful trip to Dunham River to fish. Not even a bite this time. Had the girls over for dinner and had BBQ Prawns and Fish. Excellent!
Tuesday morning Sandra & I got picked up a 7:30AM for a scenic flight over Lake Argyle and the Bungle Bungles. We went with Kimberly Air Tours which fly seaplanes. We took off with 6 other people from the airport before landing on Lake Argyle to pickup one other couple at the boat ramp. We then took off again from the Lake. We both loved the landings and takeoffs on the water. Remarkably smooth! We toured South over Lake Argyle, the Osmand Ranges, and a number of cattle stations. The highlight of the trip was flying over and around Purnululu Park which is better known as the Bungle Bungles. Beautiful!
We then turned back North to return and land on the south end of Lake Argyle where we anchored at Lagoon Island. This is a deserted island where we had a cup of tea/coffee and some nice cakes. We retuned to the plane and flew over the Argyle Diamond Mine which is huge and is famous for it's Pink Diamonds. From there we landed at the boat ramp to drop off the one couple before taking off again for home. We flew over the Ord River, Spillway Creek, Diversion Dam before landing at airport around noon. Our pilot Adam then dropped us all back off at our campsites. It was a wonderful tour, beautiful and very informative, and we felt it was good value. Highly recommended! Sandra said she could have done the water takeoffs and landings all day long. We spent the afternoon catching up with our photo edits and our Blog for Lake Argyle.
Wednesday morning the Ransleys, Bewells, and Emma went a 30KM drive out to Molly Springs. This was a beautiful little spot with water running all year round. It is fairly remote and we had the entire site to ourselves. The waters were crystal clear and Stephen and I enjoyed a relaxing swim in the pool created by the water fall. The water was a nice temperature and surprisingly deep in some spots. We lazed around enjoying the peaceful surroundings, sun, and water for a couple of hours before returning to the caravan park. We had a picnic lunch at Celebrity Tree Park. Lovely location on Lake Kununurra.
The six of us went out to dinner with Emma and Matina to the Pumphouse. This is located right on Lake Kununurra and is a beautiful location which serves wonderful food. Fairly expensive but very nice. The girls paid for half of the meal which was really nice of them.
Thursday we did some laundry, cleaning, and shopping as Di, Terry, John, & Sandra were planning o leave on Friday. Stephen and Carol are staying on for a few more days so Stephen can watch the NRL Finals games this weekend. Unfortunately, Carol threw her back out and ended up in hospital. The medication they gave her made her violently ill and she ended up back at the hospital after dinner and spent the night. We decided to stay at least one more day to see how she recovers.
Friday morning Terry and I returned to Ivanhoe Crossing to try our luck with the Barramundi. Terry caught two but both were too small and were released. I had one bite and we both lost a number of lures in the fast moving waters. No success but at least as Terry said it gave us some hope. Sandra & Di went to Stoneworks where they had a lovely mango smoothy. Also went back to the Hoochery and Sandalwood Factory to pick up some gifts. Carol was discharged this morning and is feeling marginally better. Lots of sleep. It is very hot here (41 degrees on my car temp in the shade) so lots of use of the airconditioner and the swimming pool.
Saturday we are still here to make sure Carol is on the mend. John and Terry went back to Ivanhoe Crossing in search of the elusive Barramundi. We caught about 6 but all were well under the minimum size limit of 55cm. Terry had one good one that jumped out of the water and threw his lure. S**t!
Sandra & Di went to the Kununurra Markets. They picked up a couple of small gifts and met the lady that had done the beautiful prints we saw at the Hoochery. We had a nice relaxing afternoon and Di, Terry, Sandra, and I will leave in the morning heading towards the Bungle Bungles. Carol is on the mend but they will stay behind a few days before heading off. Very hot again today with it still showing 33 degrees after dark tonight.
